I haven't been posting any new projects lately, but I have been doing planning.
I am working on a new idea for me in using pearl powders with UV crystal resin as act sent colors in stippling on grips.
I am really looking forward to trying out my new plan for my old 22lr PF940sc, that is in need of a makeover.
I am all so doing a test etching on a crap rockslide to see if I can etch deep enough to inlay with pearl powder.
From everything I have learned from watching videos I think it can be done just like you would if you have done any wood inlays.
When I start testing and using Pearl EX I will post more and when i get started with the makeover on my PF940sc I'll start posting more.
I have completed my test for using Pearl EX with mixed conclusions.
First, I etched a deep spot for pearl EX.
I thought I would try something different; I tried using clay to build a well for my solution to be contained, not running all over the place. IT worked until it heated up and then melted. So back to my old way of controlling how my solution is somewhat controlled.
I built up layers of tape. It works but not the best idea. This is a old crap rockslide, they do have a use 🤣.
You can see I burned deep, the wood dolls I made little scopes for adding pearl EX.
The process I used is first put just a little UV resin making sure I cover all the area for inlay.
Then using the UV light to cure it for 30sec.
Then I added Pearl EX powder filling all most to the top. I added more UV resin making sure I cover the whole inlay area, cure it again for 120sec.
I sanded it flat and as you see in the photo.
Arrows show spots that didn't have enough pearl EX and resin, so I did the process over, but it was so thin that it never bonded to the original resin, it just rolled out.
My question at this point was, how deep does the inlay really have to be?
On the other side of the slide, I burned a shallow burn and did the same process as with the white pearl using black this time. I know it's a blurry photo, but you get the idea, inlay just rolls out but not until I did the final test, heat cure oven at 200 degrees.
Coming out of the oven inlay is soft but not running. What I did notice was the white pearl setup hard overnight and holds tight but the black being thinner just rolls out.
Another thing I learned about Pearl EX and UV resin is don't use to much Pearl EX.
When too much Pearl EX is used it turns the resin into something like puddy and doesn't set up.
Your resin is supper clear so a thin layer of Pearl EX with a thicker layer of resin works great.
CONCLUTION:
What I wanted to know was can I use UV resin with Pearl EX as an inlay on steel?
What I came up with is MAYBE!
UV resin acts like JB Weld plastic bond that I have tested in the past.
It sticks but not bonds like JB Weld. What I mean is plastic bond can be picked off easy, whereas JB Weld bonds, you cannot pick it off, it has to be sanded off.
When UV resin is used as inlay it does hold and can be cured in the oven after painting.
My next question in using UV resin, can I use it on polymer grips with stippling around it?
This will be my next test. If I can use this stuff instead of painting, I have some ideas for some new builds that will be really a one-of-a-kind build.