Bare with me a sec.
I've built several AR's from scratch and all worked with no issues and continue to run great. I've taken apart numerous rifles, shotguns, and handguns and swapped parts out of all kinds of firearms. Everything always went back together with little to no issues and functioned as it should. Enter my newly acquired SCT-19...
I had some time to work on it after working late today. The slide went together just fine. The frame, I thought, went together just fine. Please keep in mind this is the first time I've had any time to work on it, so I just wanted a test fit/function test. I haven't prepped any of the internals yet; i.e. polishing and a few other things I need to do before assembly.
The trigger doesn't feel right at all and I can reset it just by pulling the trigger forward. Racking the slide doesn't reset the trigger, but when I try to take the slide off, the trigger resets. The slide doesn't come all the way back to use the slide release to lock the slide back. It's almost there, but not quite. I finally got the slide off and stripped it. I started stripping the frame, but the trigger pin won't budge at all. It went in super smooth with no issues, but it will not come out. HELP!!!
And the Strike magwell actually does fit the SCT-19 frame.
After following the video Ram posted (thanks again) about bending the connector and trying it a few times, and swapping out the trigger bar, I'm happy to announce that I have a functional firearm!! The trigger feels great and resets every time. I just finished all safety checks, including drop tests, and all looks good. Next up is a trip to the range for live fire testing. Thanks again everyone!!
Finally got around to pulling the gun back apart.
I really appreciate everyone's help with this. Thank you.
One thing I might not have mentioned that might be an issue. When I go to put the trigger housing pin in, I have to pull the trigger down in order for the pin to go all the way through. Could this be part of the issue? Is something in the way?
One other thought FWIW...
I once had an issue with an aftermarket Lone Wolf ejector 30274 clone. It was too high above the housing and it was too thin allowing it to slide easily in the housing. So it was dragging on the slide and also coming out of the housing. Only noticed it by accident after struggling to get the slide off and saw the ejector unseated about 1/4 inch out of the housing. Didn't have an OEM 30274, so swapped back in the original 336. Problem solved.
I'm interested to see the resolution to this problem, and have a few thoughts.
Agree that the reset problem is almost certainly connector related. It might even be causing the slide not to fully cycle. You said the problems disappeared for a bit after swapping out the P80 trigger housing with an OEM one. But then you got some plastic shavings?? Not sure what that's about, but it indicates rails/pins problems. Or possibly poor slide dimensions. Stick with an OEM housing for now and try to put in a different connector (not P80) and make sure it's properly adjusted.
Get rid of that damn Tyrant slide stop. At least for now. Those things have caused me more build headaches than I can count. I'm willing to bet that's causing your trigger pin issue, and perhaps more. A major problem with the Tyrant slide stop is the spring is too thin and not bent correctly. When properly installed, the spring should rest on the ledge of the trigger. But, being too thin, it slips off the ledge and gets wedged between the trigger and the frame. Also, because the bend is incorrect, sometimes this allows the spring to slip into the pin groove making removal most difficult.
It may be helpful to go back to square 1 and re-check everything. Agree with Hawkeye that you may have a problem with the RSA. Have you checked the channel to make sure there's no drag spots and plenty of room for the RSA to cycle? Are the pin holes perfect? How did the rails install? Have you checked level and adjusted if necessary?
The P80 LPK shouldn't be a problem, but obviously it is. Get an OEM trigger bar.
Is the slide lock installed correctly? Groove to the rear.
Keep us updated.
I've been working the slide since posting and it's now coming back enough to use the slide release. Trigger resests probably about 8-9 times out of 10. I just noticed the slide release is moving when I pull the trigger. Checked my G26 and it doesn't do it. Could be nothing.
It's been a little bit, but I was finally able to sit down and work on this today. I polished everything and put it all back together. The trigger doesn't reset every time and the slide isn't coming back far enough to use the slide stop/release. It's almost there, but needs just a small bit to go.
New OEM trigger housing came in today. Since the other one had a piece shaved off, I got a new one. Rook pins and Gen4 ejector came in as well. I'm going to strip everything, polish everything that needs polished, and reassemble.
I put it all back together and it actually started working as it should. The trigger felt like a standard glock trigger and I was able to lock the slide back using the slide release. I cycled the slide numerous times and then a little plastic shaving came out the back. The last three pics is where it came from and now the gun is back to being dead in the water. It reverted back to the trigger not resetting.
I was home from work long enough to change clothes and have to leave again, so it will be a bit before I can get pics.
I'm using a Polymer 80 LPK, minus a few aftermarket parts: NDZ extended slide lock, Tyrant Designs slide release, Strike Industries extended mag release, and I'll be ordering new pins from Rook Friday or Saturday. I did have some issues getting the trigger pin in at first. I had to hold the trigger in a certain spot to get the pin started, but once it was started, it went in with no issues. There's no resistance when pulling the trigger. It just comes straight back. The trigger housing appears to be seated correctly. I'll post pics later tonight or sometime tomorrow.
Trigger problem is most likely the connector like Ram said.
One of my first builds did the same thing not coming far enough back for the slide release lock to engage but I am not sure what caused it. My guess is RSA is hanging. Just my guess.
I still have problems getting trigger pin in and out, you have to push the slide release lock forward and up to find that sweet spot that brings it up out of the notch on the pin.
After 15 builds this still gives me a pain in the butt, I have trashed out a number of them trying to get them out.
First question, are you using OEM internals? Ok ummmm well obviously (well maybe lol) it's not resetting because it's not fully cycling ("...the slide doesn't come all the way back..."). Not sure why that would happen but let's tackle some other stuff first. Trigger pin is probably being held by the slide lock/release lever (hope you're trying to remove it from left to right). Trigger issues are usually connector related. Does it feel mushy when pulling? Check to make sure the connector isn't pushed in the trigger housing too far or not far enough. Meaning the angle in which it sits in relation to the housing (I'll post a pic shortly unless Hawkeye beats me too it). Is the trigger housing seated properly? Also the sharks fin could be dragging the bottom of the slide. What's you spacing between the slide and frame look like? Post up some pics of all mentioned and maybe we'll see something.