Safe way to add logos to grips

When I built my Young Wolf, I carved the head of a wolf into the grip. This was a Freedom Wolf frame that has plenty of stock in the grip area for doing so without any worry of burning through the grip area. This is different in a P80, they get thin walled when you take out the factory stippling for a recessed stipple work.

Here I have removed all the factory stipple and roughed out the boarders, I still need to do a lot of sanding and straightening of the edges but not at this point in the build. I feel it is better to wait and do sanding last, that way if I have any oops, I can fix them once and I have stock left to do so.

I plan on putting the Builders Tribe logo on the grip.

I need to know the OD size of my stencil for making a mold for JB Weld. I use a silicone matt that is 1/8 thick as my mold. JB Weld will not stick to silicone and the 1/8 is the same height as the boarders.

Now that I have the size I need with some extra OD for trimming into place when set and I'm ready for placing on the frame.

I just use tape to hold the mold in place but sometimes when placing the mold on a curve surface I will use some super glue but remember you have to remove all the super glue because it will not stipple but it is easy to remove with a diamond burr or even a small jewelers file.

I just add JB Weld over the mold and let set overnight.

Next day I will use a drum sander to knock off most of the high spots before I remove the silicone mold. This helps you keep the depth of the JB Weld need.

I remove the mold and adding my stencil, I have lines to work to for shaping. I always leave stock and work a little at a time all around, bringing it closer and close to the stencil. This way you have stock to work with if you oops.

You can see how much JB Weld I removed but this is why I like to use JB Weld. It is very easy to blend and remove compared to how you go about carving into a polymer frame. Everything will have a recessed look and feel with Stright boarders. If you do this on a polymer frame not only, do you have to remove polymer off you grip, you need a bevel at the point of the logo so that the stippling does not stick up higher them the logo and that makes the grip area really thin. I use JB Weld a lot to add boarders and logos to frames. I all so use it for reshaping frames. This stuff bonds to polymer and does not crack or chip, and it holds paint.

There is one drawback to using JB Weld that I have with it. It seems that it has a tendency to get air bubbles when mixing that create pits after sanding. What I do then is use a ball burr to make the pit hole bigger and add a dab of

JB Weld pushing in into the bigger hole pushing any air that might get trapped, sand after set time. This seems to work for a fix.

I used an assortment of diamond burrs in a verity of sizes to blend in all the details while leaving plenty of stock on top for fixing an oops. Not bad but I made a big mistake in my planning that will have to be fixed. Can you see it? It is not in the work done, but in the stippling, to come.

That is one of the diamond burrs I used to blend in these tight places and that is when it hit me. I cannot do stippling in an area this tight without burning the JB Weld logo. So, what I will do is move the top of the tee higher and giving me enough room to stipple. I will remove some of the B close to the base of the tee to give me room for stippling.

I wish I had caught this at the start, I could have made my stencil with the room need for stippling, but this is what customizing is all about. I mess up and let you guys know what not to do.

I have to get some pictures of the fix and post them later. Any Questions just ask.