I think the vise is the most overlooked tool used or not used, but it's a very important tool if you do a lot of hand work on frames and other small projects. I have made a living doing hand work and have learned a lot of tips on making things easier and the vise plays a big part of that.
The vise holds what you're working on (obviously) but why use one when you can just hold stuff in one hand and tools in the other?
The vise keeps stress off your hands, you will notice this the older you get.
The vise will keep you from bending over to work on stuff
(You know the pain in your neck when you stay bent over for a long time}
I have trained people that didn't learn these basic safety facts and ended up having neck surgery and tendentious in their hands.
So, keep back straight and don't hold parts in your hands for very long periods of time.
Here's my vise:
This is just a small 4 inch 360 vise. I replaced the jaws because I wore them out working on frames.
This is just for small projects I have a different set-up for AR builds
Remember what I said (set your vise up so you keep a straight back)
Here I took out the rubber jaws and added a 2x4 wrapped with a rag. I use this set-up for sanding and shaping, it's a rest to help hold without putting pressure on your hands.
Here you can see how I used this set-up, I'm getting ready for so shaping and sanding putting very little pressure on my hands.
Here is another set-up, small flat work space. It's high enough so my back stays straight.
This set-up is for adding stencils, this way really makes it easy to apply them while you can see what Thay look like.
I use this set-up a lot, I'll put a build here and just stare and stare and come up with a build theme. Then change my mind at least twice or more before I settle in on one theme build.
by Hawkeye » Tue Jun 07, 2022 7:12 pm
This is the rotary hand tool that I use. It's a little bigger than what I liked to use when I worked at the tool shop, but this model has more toque and less speed. I believe this one will top out at 33,000 rpm but the only time you need that speed is with carbide burrs.
1) I keep a box with an assortment of brushes and bobs, some soft and some hard. Used with some rubbing compounds you can save a lot of time getting a high polish without having to use 1500 grit sand paper and up. There are still some metals that will do better with sand paper like aluminum or copper. That is because they are a soft metal and will show dips if you are not very careful with brushes and compound.
2) this unit has a head and a motor that can be removed, with different heads and motor you can set up for an assortment of scenarios. I only have this set up. it's really a all around setup. This unit is very easy to use and not as heavy as a Dremel.
This is the lapping compound I use in most of my first steps after sanding, It has just enough grit to start working scratches out. When you see grit ratings on compounds, it is miss leading. The same sandpaper grit will leave a courser scratch then a compound in the same grit. The jar is just some K-1 kerosene I use to clean off this lapping compound (Its oil based)
1) This is some really cool stuff, diamond compounds in different grits. It is made by using different amounts of diamond dust mixed with ether a water base or a oil base cream. I prefer a oil base it doesn't dry out as fast when used with a different brushes. The cheapest way to go is buy some diamond dust and mix it with mink oil paste like you use to water proof boots.
2) rotary unit again
3) assortment of brushes
Later I will talk out the other hand units this power supply will run.
by RAMjetta » Tue Jun 07, 2022 7:40 am
Sounds like a very sweet setup to have thx for sharing.
JettaMan OUT!
by WE4PONXYZ » Mon Jun 06, 2022 11:08 pm
That’s an awesome piece of machinery and such a good deal!!
by Hawkeye » Tue May 24, 2022 12:01 pm
Here is a JB Weld tip: When you mix JB Weld you need something that does not soak up moisture and JB Weld will not stick to.
I save those plastic packaging that comes with parts or other things you buy. I cut them up in small pieces small but big enough to hold the amount of JB Weld I plan on using.
i like to use round sticks that I can cut the ends to the size I need for the job at hand.
When finished just toss it in the trash. Save the stick and recut the end for the next job.
More tool talk:
This what I used for years at home.
The power supply still works but I have burned up the barring's in the hand unit.
I have used several Dremel's over the years. Dremel's have a lot of draw backs'.
1 is controlling speed, even if you have one that lets you control speed you loose torque. I guess over the years I have burned up at least three.
2 is, they are hard to hold because of there weight.
3, even if you have the Dremel flex shaft you still loose torque and now you have that shaft that all way seems to in a bind. I have burned out two motors and three shafts over the years.
This what I have at home in my shop now, please don't hate me, I just got lucky and ran into a deal when I retired from the tool shop I worked at. I traded a Kennedy lower tool box full of mics and caliper, and hole mics for this unit. I all so had some setup blocks and jigs I had made over the years.
This is the power supply that will control a rotary tool, a profiler tool and a ultrasonic hand piece.
This is what I made a living using for 33 years. This is top of the line when it comes to hand work in a tool shop. I'll give more info on the hand tools later on. This power supply lets you control speed without loosing torque. Plue they can run all day and not over heat.
Using something like this is a big plus because you are using hand pieces that are lighter and don't have that shaft getting in a bind all the time. This power supply also lets you switch directions in rotation in your hand held tools. This comes in handy when you a polishing scratches out.
Remember the rule? to work scratches out you have to sand in the an opposite (90 degrees) from the scratch you want to remove. If you sand in the same direction as the scratch you jest make it deeper or you will dip the surface your working on.
The tool on top costs around $200.
The bottom power supply plus a rotary tool, profiler and a ultrasonic tool will set you back over $2000. So when I say I got lucky I mean I got lucky. Trading a bunch of tools I no longer need or would use for this is dream come true for me.
by WE4PONXYZ » Mon May 09, 2022 10:10 pm
My most used tool day to day would go to this beast (Leatherman OHT). And my brain when it’s up to the task
But as far as building goes in my case probably my dremel. I also use it quite a bit for other projects too such as wood carving and polishing metal etc. etc.
Time for some more favorite bunch of tools:
1) Razor blade knifes and picks or a must have when dealing with stencils.
I use the #11 blades the most and buy them by the 1000s. You can't use them very long before there dull and a
dull blade can make a mess then it comes to trimming stencils.
2) Tweezers and 6" scales. When you get older you will find that it's harder and harder to pick up and hold small
parts so, the tweezers where invented I have them in all shapes and sizes and use them all the time but
they are a must have for working with stencils. The scale I use for a straight edge most of the time but have
used them for a quick measuring ruler.
3-4) When I do frame mods mostly doing detail out lines I use all sizes of files, some fine and others course. I
prefer to use the files that have a curved end because they let you get into tight places. When I use the fret
cutter, I stopped cutting flush because of the divots they leave on the rail. I cut close leaving just a little to
be filed off then sand.
5) A pin vise with a 3mm and 4mm bit. Ever since I started using this method of drilling hole I get perfect pin holes
every time. First hand drill the holes on your jig to make sure your bits do not cut the red jig when you drill
your holes, I use the 3mm and 4mm bit for this by hand. for drilling your pin holes use bits that are smaller by a
few thousandths smaller then I hand drill with a 3mm and 4mm bits. This makes a tight pin hole (to tight) then
I take some old pins, putting them in a hand drill with 500 grit lapping compound lapping the holes out till the
pins have a press fit. (wall-la) perfect holes.
please add any info or tips on doing or using your favorite tools, there are many ways to do the same thing and everyone has different techniques they feel comfortable using. One thing I have learned over the years in trying to train young guys in hand work is everyone has a different feel for it.
Ok time for more tool talk:
1) 3m wheel pads in several grits, these are great on steel but you really have to be careful using them on polymer, If you run them to fast or hold them in one spot to long you can melt polymer and plastic. Same thing with the sanding disks, run them slow and keep moving them. It is rare that I use anything courser then 600 grit. I use 1/4" and 3/8"s most of the time but, a 1/2" comes in handy when you want to really remove some material. TIP: the bigger the wheel the easier it is keep a smooth cut (no dips and gouges) 2)These things are great on steel and polymer. (Cera wheels) They have different grits of ceramic imbedded in rubber wheels. They can cut and polish depending on grits, I use these a lot, they are costly but if you don't try and remove a lot at one time they last a long time. I use 80, 220, and 320 the most of the time but I do have some finer grits. 3)These are a must have for everything you can think of. Most of them are Dimond points in all kinds of sizes and shapes. I have a few carbide burrs in the mix too. I bought this cheap kit from amazon to get a few course Dimond point but mostly because I needed the case. I replaced about half of them with my small fine Dimond points that I use most of the time. 4)Pin vise with 3mm and 4mm bits for cleaning out pin hole. 5)This is the greatest tool I have bought in a long time. A micro sander, comes with square, triangle, round, and a barrel pad that you can put sticky back sand paper on. Sand paper comes in 80grit up to 1000 grits. I have to give Raccer88 the credit for finding this must have tool back in the MGB days. This saves allot of time sanding and saves a lot of pain on your hands. Amazon has them for around $80 and worth every penny. If you look at the bottom, you can see some bags with different sandpaper grits. I cut sheets of sandpaper up in small piece and put them in bags for a quick grab. I have 320 up t0 3000 grits. Yes I have a lot of hand tools (don't hold it against me) I have a lot of tools because I saved tools over the years and its how I made a living for years (doing hand work and polishing). Later I'll show some power tools that can make doing frame mods and sanding for new paint as easy as it gets, so later my friends!!
Top
by PaulusInIA » Sun Apr 03, 2022 7:32 pm
The original pin was replaced with a V Seven firing pin. The old pin is now an ersatz punch tool. https://www.vsevenweaponsystems.com/tit ... iring-pin/
-Paulus In IA
by Ancient Order » Sun Apr 03, 2022 6:32 pm
PaulusInIA wrote: ↑Fri Apr 01, 2022 8:45 pmI use a spare AR-15 firing pin as a punch tool. Don’t hate. Spare?
by RAMjetta » Sat Apr 02, 2022 8:41 am
PaulusInIA wrote: ↑Fri Apr 01, 2022 8:45 pmI use a spare AR-15 firing pin as a punch tool. Don’t hate. Lmao
JettaMan OUT!
by PaulusInIA » Fri Apr 01, 2022 8:45 pm
I use a spare AR-15 firing pin as a punch tool. Don’t hate.
by Hawkeye » Fri Apr 01, 2022 3:28 pm
"Ancient Order" Absolutely!!! even when I could see, a set of magnifiers are the first thing I put on when I get into my shop. I have an LED light on a #8 power magnifier. Over the years I have worn out five head gear and lost count of how many lenses I have replaced. Magnifiers are a must have for detail work.
by Ancient Order » Fri Apr 01, 2022 1:44 pm
This. Always there.
by RAMjetta » Thu Mar 31, 2022 11:16 am
Love it.
JettaMan OUT!